Tuesday, May 8, 2012

Dining in Paris and The French Paradox

Having just returned from a 10-day trip to Paris and still being a bit dazed by it all, I will post some observations while they are still hanging around somewhere in my brain! First of all, let me go pour myself a glass of champagne.... Ah, that's better. And speaking of champagne, Bob and I flew Air France non-stop out of Atlanta since I read the champagne (and all other beverages) are free! Oh, and the first checked bag is free as well. None of the Delta nickel-and-diming-you to death routine. Next I would like to give a shout out to Dr. Jim Braude of www.ourhomeinparis.com for amassing a wonderful collection of Parisian apartments that are in lovely neighborhoods and well-appointed. Ours was in Le Marais and was just downstairs from the one Jim Morrison rented on his final visit to Paris. He was found in the bath tub, as anyone my age would know, dead from a heart attack. Or at least that was the story! The kitchen was just so French with its black and white marble backsplash and old wooden floors. A tall pair of casement windows with black iron decorative railing on the exterior added to the charm. If I could figure out how to post a photo, I would. Wait....maybe I can.....
Since I did some reading this morning on WebMD regarding cholesterol, my mind starting going to the French people and their dining particulars. My doctor recommended that I never eat cheese, for example, but a cheese course exists on just about every French menu. And there are an abundance of fromageries with delicious, fresh cheeses all over the place. The French folks looked pretty healthy to me, so I thought about the French Paradox that we Americans heard about a couple of decades ago when everyone flocked to the package store for red wine. Here are some observations from me to you: *The beverages of choice for the French are wine, water, and coffee. Take heed, all you Baptists reading this! Not once did I see anyone drinking sweet tea. Interestingly enough, there are quite a few Coca Colas served in glass bottles with a glass of ice. Not one sighting of a Pepsi though! The tap water in Paris is very good and most always we were served a carafe of water at the table. *A basket of fresh, sliced French bread is served with every meal....sans le buerre. When I asked for butter, I was looked at with amazement and told that it was in the food. Now that took some getting used to! *French fries are a standard side item with most meals. I won't use the term entree because that is actually an appetizer in France. I suppose if you call them pommes frites it seems less like a fried food side. I do not know what they are fried in but it would be my wild guess that it is a healthier type of oil than what would be used in the U.S. *Fresh cheese is usually listed as a dessert option, but I ordered it a couple of times with wine before a meal. The brie at Ma Bourgnon in the Place des Vosges was terribly strong and when I mentioned this to our server he pointed to the mustard in a jar on the table. "This is the way we eat it." I asked to take it home and then threw it in the trash outside our apartment. *Speaking of cheese, I tossed some in our buggy at the Monoprix (the grocery store chain) and looked around for crackers. Around and around....until I found some. If memory serves correctly, I found only one selection of crackers, just above some Ritz Bitz. Apparently they don't eat crackers with their cheese! *The French do not consume much processed food as there are open air markets everywhere with wonderful produce as well as fromageries for cheese, boulangeries for breads and other baked goodies, wine shops, boucheries for fresh meats and sausages. It is very common to see folks strolling down the street carrying a fresh loaf of French bread. Those of you who know me will understand just how envious that makes me! *Long lunches and late dinners are the rule in Paris. Again, with lots of wine and almost always dessert. Servers do not bring a check to the table when you are still halfway through the main course as is standard practice in the U.S. I am a slow eater and was continually startled at the tables of diners that arrived before and lingered after we were gone. *The French people go to outdoor cafes to smoke. A lot. Thank goodness they cannot smoke inside the restaurants. It makes me wonder about the lung cancer rates there. Maybe all that wine and coffee inhibit cancer cells? *The streets of Paris are flooded with people. People walk a lot there and even if they take the Metro there are lots and lots of stairs to navigate down under. We visited a lot of restaurants and had some truly wonderful food. I will post some reviews soon (before my brain decides to delete and make more space for other things). The FB

Thursday, January 12, 2012

Silversea Cruise on Silver Spirit, Western Caribbean

To celebrate Bob's retirement, I booked this cruise on the Silver Spirit departing from Ft. Lauderdale on January 3rd for 7 nights. Since this was Bob's first cruise and only my second, I wanted to make sure I found something that would be a pretty sure bet to be a pleasant experience. When I ran across a nice deal on vacationstogo.com, I booked a mid-ship veranda suite, Room 918, which is on the pool deck. The Silver Spirit carries 540 passengers which was more appealing than one which accommodates 10 times that many.

We flew into Ft. Lauderdale on Monday for a Tuesday embarkation, just in case we ran into weather issues in the north Georgia mountains. It was a smooth entry from the cruise terminal onto the ship in the early afternoon and our butler greeted us in our suite. I loved the location as we were just down the hall from the entrance to the pool deck and the Panorama Lounge. Most of the room attendants were from the Philippines and were quietly eager to please. The bathroom was the star of the suite with granite counter tops, walk-in glass shower, and tub large enough for two. Down the hall was the closet and then the sleeping area with narrow vanity, followed by the living area. There were mirrored walls in the sleeping and living areas which had 2 flat-screen tv's embedded in them. The balcony consisted of two wicker-type chairs, ottomans, and a table.

The pool deck became our go-to venue for mid-day when the ship was at sea or, for example, when we docked in Guatemala. I am glad we didn't book an excursion there since the comments were mostly negative. One of our fellow travelers described his tour as a "jungle walk" before which they were told to watch out for snakes, spiders, and animals. We were glad we opted for lunch and drinks on the ship that day! The port there was mostly industrial and we were the only cruise ship there as the container ships loaded and unloaded cargo. Our ship was also the only one docked in Belize and we had to board tenders to get ashore. The shops and restaurants on the water were closed due to lack of other cruise ships, but we had the name of a restaurant that we wanted to try. We found a cab driver who took us to the Bird's Isle, which was truly a place where the locals go. My snapper was fresh and it was fun to experience the local flavors.

Back to the ship. Since I dislike getting out early for breakfast, we ordered room service most mornings. Our butler was very timely and I called for coffee sometimes when I woke up earlier than planned. Bob ordered the omelets a few times, and when we ordered the waffles and pancakes they arrived cold. We learned to stick with such things as oatmeal, yogurt, fruit, and pastries. I didn't realize that most of the restaurants were by reservation, so we really were at a disadvantage for dinner. The main restaurant did not require a reservation and was quite good on our first visit. We wanted to have a special evening at Le Champagne and our butler tried hard to get us a table. On the night when he succeeded, we found out that the theme was "A for Asparagus" and the main dish would be caviar, which neither of us eats. Since there is an additional $200 per person charged for this venue we decided to opt out. We went to the BBQ on the pool deck but the wind began whipping and we decided to go inside. Then our butler informed us that he had secured reservations the next night for "Hot Rocks", also on the level just above the pool, where you cook your own food. Sorry, but we'd had enough of dining outside on the windy seas and if I'd wanted to cook my food I'd have stayed home!

One thing we did enjoy was the daily quiz and the crossword puzzle from the Library. We won the prize for the Quiz on two occasions! There was a daily Team Trivia contest, but we learned it was important to start early and get on a team. One afternoon we decided to wander into the Panorama Lounge for a cocktail and then learned we were sitting in a team's "spot". The Bar on level 5 became the place we went for a pre-dinner drink and the servers were eager to learn our names. It was decorated in an Art Deco style and the same crowd seemed to wander in just as if one was at a local cocktail lounge.

There were many times when I wandered through the corridors and never saw another person, so this ship really does deliver in the space per passenger ratio. The Observation Lounge on Deck 11 hardly ever had anyone there during the times I visited. The Captain had his family on board and could be seen playing with his grandchildren by the pool during the day, which held a certain charm. The international crowd was well-dressed and I have never seen so many women who wore heels with their bathing suits to the pool!

We went to the Casino on a couple of nights and played Blackjack. The dealers were mostly from Romania and were very tolerant of novice players such as myself. I did manage to win money, however, on each of the three nights I played! It was fun to go on the one formal night and pretend to be in a James Bond movie, given all the men in tuxedos.

Overall, we had a great cruise and most of the shortcomings were due to lack of planning on my part. In the future I will book the restaurants and pay more attention to the shore excursions although the point of this trip was relaxation. And when in the Caribbean in January, my goal is to get away from winter and simply enjoy the great weather on the ship. Can't wait for the next cruise!

Monday, February 28, 2011

Al & Stella's Clearwater Beach, Florida

I just had to write about this little gem of a place in Florida as the owners are transplants from Italy and the food is about as authentic as one could get this side of the Mediterranean. Bob and I had concert tickets to see Diana Krall in Clearwater and stayed at the Sandpearl resort on the beach. Just a half-block from the hotel was this restaurant that I had learned of from Chowhound. It would almost be worth driving back down there just to eat here- it is that good!

The daughter came to our table and told us all of the pastas except for the penne, I believe, are made in-house. She explained that penne is generally served al dente and if fresh it would get too mushy in some of their preparations. We could hear from our table the pounding going on in the kitchen, presumably of the veal. So, hearing this, Bob had to order veal cutlets and I ordered the sauteed grouper picatta. My dish was perfectly scented with lemon and doused with capers. The pasta was incredible and I am not a huge lover of pasta, probably because I've eaten too much bad dried stuff. Had we not scheduled a taxi for the ride to the concert, I would have most certainly boxed my leftovers for the fridge in our condo at the Sandpearl. I wanted to try dessert and the daughter recommended the Torta Della Nonna, which is an authentic Italian dessert otherwise known as Grandmother's Pie. It had a shortbread crust with a baked lemon filling, topped with toasted pine nuts, all dusted with powdered sugar. Scrumpy! The recipe is online and I can't wait to make it with the Meyer lemons I bought last week. I promise to report back if I do!

Now just take me to Italy to eat....FB

Bistro Niko Atlanta, Ga

Ooh la la, so I couldn't wait until I ate here three times to post about this great new restaurant in Atlanta! Bistro Niko is operated by the son of Pano Karatassos, a longtime restaurateur in Atlanta and the expertise shows in every detail, from service to food. I only have eaten lunch there, but I suspect the dinner crowd is much like the well-dressed, chic Buckhead crowd that flocks here for lunch in a very bustling piece of Peachtree just north of the Grand Hyatt.

Bob and I were staying in hotels during both lunch visits, so we entered from the street side and you actually are walking into the bar. However, the maitre`d stand is on the back side where there is, presumably, a parking lot or valet stand. The room nearest this entrance and across from the kitchen has a very French bistro feel with its tiles, art, and light fixtures. It is bright, noisy, and has tables for diners. The other dining area has booths and is darker and cozier. The bar area also has booths lined up against the windows for a view of Peachtree. In addition, there are cafe tables on an outdoor terrace for those like me who love to dine al fresco, weather permitting. There is some awkwardness in the hostess' decision-making regarding seating, however. We asked for a quiet table but we were placed in a booth in the center of the restaurant with booths to the left and right of us. She then put a family of five, including an infant seat, in a booth across from us. To the father's credit, he asked to be moved to a banquette in a more private area where there would be less intrusion to those around them. Not to mention there was no place for the infant carrier in the booth!

I think this place is filling the gap for those Buckhead and Brookhaven residents who were used to having lunch at Brasserie Le Coze because the menus here is very similar to that of the now-defunct BLC. It is now repositioned as FAB in midtown, but that would be another blog. Oh, it may already be, I forget. The requisite skate wing is on the menu and of course some wonderful French bread and perfect butter. And the FB loves her French bread and butter! I ordered fish both times I lunched at Niko and both were perfectly prepared. Desserts were very good and rich, as one would expect in a Parisian-styled bistro.

I read that many of the accoutrements were brought in from France and the architecture, particularly the ceilings, reflect this style. We made reservations for lunch and are were glad we did. It gets packed. And if you go there in jeans or sweats, you will be very under-dressed, as this is the place to be seen in your Atlanta-chic best. And that goes for the men as well! FB

Zanzoni's Grill Clarkesville, Ga

Just don't go. Trying to kill some time last week, I wandered about the Old Clarkesville Mill, noticing a completely empty restaurant. Shouldn't this have told me something?? I decided to sit down, waste a bit more time (and money), and order lunch. My Caesar salad topped with chicken had an odd taste from the first bite, so I wondered if it was from the stuff that restaurants spray on lettuce to take away the brown. Having kids who worked in food service was helpful to learn these dirty little secrets. The Romaine was chopped in perfect little pieces in which every one had a rib. Now how does that happen? Where are the ends of the leaf that are darker green? The three chicken strips had fake grill marks and were obviously the frozen kind that were simply heated in the kitchen. They tasted weird and fake. Yuck. As my friend, Didi, said, "And you wondered why nobody was there?"
It would be great if someone came in there and had really great burgers with handmade milkshakes perhaps. You know.....bowling food! And, God forbid, beer perhaps?

Natalie Jane's Clarkesville, Georgia

Wow, it has been a very long time since I have posted anything here, so it's time for me to get "rear in gear"! Lord knows I haven't been sitting at home twiddling my thumbs! Having recently learned that Natalie Jane's will be undergoing some exciting, new changes, Bob and I went for lunch last Saturday. Not sure about everything, but they will be turning the back room into a bar and will feature craft beers- woohoo! It is about time someone discovered this market in our sleepy, little town. I like Natalie Jane's for its quirky, slightly hip, attitude toward the food and service. She has a knack for taking ordinary menu items and creating new versions with subtle, simple changes. For example, Bob ordered the chicken salad sandwich which featured smoked chicken instead of the usual and it was a great twist on a standard. Unfortunately, the tortilla chips which accompanied were greasy and disappointing. My fries that came with my smoked turkey sandwich tasted suspiciously like tortilla strips, so we figured they came from the same tired grease. The sandwich came on wheat berry bread with a feta cheese spread and caramelized onions. Very tasty and more than I could eat.

But now for the best parts! Our server brought over the wine list which formerly was heavy on local Blackstock vineyard wines. He explained that the wine list is being revamped and current bottles had been reduced. This was music to our ears, so we ordered a very drinkable Washington State chardonnay for a mere $16 per bottle. Natalie has catered a party at my house, so I am very aware of her talents with sweets. We ordered a peanut butter gelato that had been dipped in chocolate and drizzled with caramel. Can you say OMG?? Of course, this dessert called for more wine and we settled on the Blackstock Viognier which was acceptable since it is a bit sweet. Our waiter resealed the remainder of the bottle so we could take it home. Isn't this new law great? Now if Georgia would only treat its citizens like responsible adults and allow Sunday alcohol sales....and Natalie would keep pecan pie on her dessert menu.

Saturday, July 4, 2009

Social Resto Cafe and Bar Atlanta, Ga

I had done some homework prior to a brief overnight stay in Atlanta and definitely wanted to give this place a try. It was within walking distance of the hotel (The Ellis on Peachtree downtown) but I wound up driving the six blocks to W. Peachtree Pl. There is a parking lot just down from Social that was pretty deserted on this Friday, July 3rd, so I took my chances after a fellow who was cleaning a car there seemed to know the score. He told me my car would be safe for the duration of our lunch. And safe it was. Luckily I saw the man a couple of blocks down the street and tipped him for the tip!
The room is a soaring two level, lofty space with natural wood and white painted brick walls. It was deserted at 12:30 on a Friday, but since it was July 3rd the business crowd may have been enjoying a long holiday weekend. There were only two other occupied tables, so we had plenty of choices. We decided to go upstairs to a nice table by the window, looking out onto the tree-lined street.
The menu at Social has an international feel since one of the owners is from France and the other is from Tunisia. Most of the wines and beers are from Europe and are priced very reasonably. My companion ordered a bottle of Printhie Chardonnay from Southeast Australia and was a bargain at $31 (the wine, not my friend). In fact, we ordered another bottle to share with desserts and since the Georgia law now allows you to recork the leftovers, we took it back to the hotel.
I ordered the Pasta of the Day, which was Papardelle with chunks of Mortadella sausage and fresh summer squashes, tied together in a cream sauced laced with fresh basil, thyme, and sage. I could have licked the bowl! Seriously, this may have been the best pasta dish The FB has ever tasted. It was quite humorous when I asked our server if they would share the recipe. He said in a lighthearted way that it was simply pasta with yellow squash and zucchini. In my own inimitable style, I pressed him harder and he went off to the kitchen. When he returned he was able to share the particulars about the cream sauce. Now that's better....
My dining companion ordered the "ham and cheese sandwich with fries". This was no ordinary ham and cheese. First of all, the fries were hand cut Pommes Frites and the sandwich was served on a homemade roll spread with roasted garlic and fresh tomato sauce. The filling was Soppressata with Fontina cheese. When he wasn't eating my pasta, "R" managed to finish most of his sandwich because as he said, "For some reason I keep wanting to go back for one more bite".
Exactly! And isn't this what makes food so interesting?
For dessert, we wanted to go back and try the cold strawberry gazpacho that was the Soup Du Jour. The Spanish Flan with caramel seemed to be calling our names, too. Keep in mind that we were still sipping that Chardonnay, so we were curious as to how these finales would pair with the wine. The wine won. The cold, pureed soup needed possibly a Viognier and the flan was far too sweet. In fact, we left half of both desserts.
I hope this restaurant makes it because it has the wonderful feel of a neighborhood restaurant that one would visit at least once or twice a week. Great food, nice wine list, friendly owners is a nice combination for this town with a penchant for glitz and visibility. Unfortunately, just the characteristics that make Social appealing could possibly be its undoing in this fickle place called Atlanta.

FB